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Goulburn
Griffith's  
Hook: Daiichi
1330 or Tiemco 100 # 14 - 20
Thread:
Black 8/0 Uni Thread
Tail:
Pearl Coloured Shimmerflash
Under
body: Peacock Herl
Hackle:
Grizzle
| 1/ First
off wrap a nice even base of thread starting from
near the front of the hook and extending to the
point where you are going to tie in your first part
of the fly, the tail. This point should be roughly
level with the barb on the hook. Once this is completed
and you have a good bed of thread proceed to step
two. |
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| 2/ Now
take two pieces of the Shimmerflash and cut away
from the clump. Take them and measure against the
hook shank as the tail should be equal to the length
of it. Now tie in these two pieces extending straight
out the back of the fly and slightly apart. Trim
off the excess and wind thread back in line with
the hook barb ready for step three. |
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| 3/ The
next step requires finding a nice fat piece of peacock
herl which will be use to make the under body of
the fly. This should be tied in with the direction
it will be wound in mind, so that the bushiest side
of the herl will be on the outside of the wraps
and therefore make the nicest body possible. Tie
out to the rear and out of the way of the next step. |
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| 4/
Now select a Grizzle hackle feather to
suit the hook size you are using. Feathers from
Hoffman Saddles are particularly good for this type
of fly as you can tie between 8-10 flies from the
one feather. Strip some of the barbles from the
bottom of the feather and tie in just as you have
the previous materials. Then wind the thread to
the front of the hook. |
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| 5/ Take
the herl with your fingers and gently wind it forward
to the front of the fly. I like to wind in a clockwise
direction. Do this being careful to place each successive
wrap just in front of the previous one. This will
give you a nice plump under body. Also be careful
not to break the herl by being gentle with the herl
as it is delicate. Now tie it off and trim the excess. |
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| 6/ Lastly
take the hackle feather and wind it forward to the
front of the hook. Depending on what sort of fly
you want either use minimal turns or up to six.
This will either cause it to to sit low in the film
or high on the top representing and emerging chironomid
or the mating adults. Once you get to the front
tie in and trim the excess. Use two half hitches
to finish off. |
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The
Pattern
This fly
pattern was sent to me about three years ago by a good
friend of mine from Wales. As some of you would be aware
they are first rate chironomid fisherman and are light
years ahead of us when it comes to this type of fishing.
This is because of the colder climates and the type
of waters they fish where midge are probably the most
consistent hatching insect. They have developed techniques
for catching trout dining on midge over the last century
and beyond and it was for this reason that the patterns
he sent were of particular interest. Many of the notes
on how to fish them were also very interesting. But
sitting in the bottom of the selection was this fly
which I immediately could relate to, a Griffith's Gnat
variant! This humble little pattern has been a favourite
of ours for many years so to see another variation on
it was exciting.
The notes
that came with it talked of it's effectiveness when
fish are taking either the adults or the emerging midge.
I was somewhat doubtful about the second claim as the
person who sent it made sure he included at least three
strictly imitative emerging chironomid patterns as well.
Also, we only seemed to use the Griffith's here in Oz
as a representation of the balling midge. He explained
that the tail of flash material was a small trailing
shuck and that it worked probably more often than the
exact imitations. So we tied a whole bunch of them from
#14-22's and have been fishing them since. They have
turned out to be one of the best patterns for when trout
are selectively feeding on midge.
We use
it everywhere, in still or running water, with a dead
drift or sometimes retrieved slowly across a lake's
surface. It probably takes more trout for me than any
other pattern over the course of a season. Another effective
technique is to hang a small pupa from it while fishing
the hatch, that way covering a couple of aspects of
what is going on. They should be carried in all sizes
and if you want to be pedantic tie two styles. The first
having a very sparse hackle so that it sits low in the
film like an emerger. The other with a much more densely
hackled body so as to cause it to ride high for when
the fish are taking the balling adults.
This is
a very effective fly for early season risers on the
Goulburn. Often through Spring and Autumn you will find
fish rising, particularly in tail outs of pools on no
see ums. Most often this is to midge and this fly in
the appropriate size should fool quite a number of these
difficult trout. Remember to also use light gear and
tippets to maximise both your enjoyment and effectiveness.
Regards
Antony |